Spit-tacular

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Stir Market's rotisserie chicken
Spit roasting makes Stir Market's crisp, crackling and juicy porchetta a thing of beauty and deliciousness. (Jesus Banuelos)

Still mourning the shuttering of Koo Koo Roo?

Wipe your tears: A new crop of artisanal rotisseries (try saying that three times fast) has arrived with antibiotic- and hormone-free meats, gourmet preparations and fresh vegetable sides.

At Stir Market, the new Fairfax-district food hall from Jet Tila, the European rotisserie is the heart of the operation. Free-range chickens—seasoned Provençal style with preserved lemon, garlic and herbs—emerge from the spit with burnished skin and juicy meat. The porchetta—pork tenderloin brined in a wet rub of fennel, rosemary, lavender and lemon zest—boasts succulent meat and a crispy exterior.

Executive chef Chris Barnett notes that rotisserie cooking is “a healthier way of cooking versus the oven.” Meat done on the spit is “self-basting,” he says, “so there are no added oils or butter needed to keep the meat moist.” Plus, excess fat drips away, leaving leaner protein.

Status Kuo rotisserie chicken
Status Kuo’s tender, golden rotisserie chicken.

Rotisserie plates ($18 to $19) are served with roasted seasonal vegetables sourced organically and locally whenever possible. Whole porchetta ($110) and chickens ($22) can be purchased to go, and a special orange and soy-glazed rotisserie duck will be available for the holidays.

Across town in Mar Vista, chef David Kuo has just opened Status Kuo, his ode to rotisserie meats. The spit-roasted selection currently includes tender, golden half chicken served with persimmon and pomegranate salad ($15) and rosy slices of tri-tip served with root vegetables ($18). The produce is sourced primarily from the Mar Vista Farmers’ Market, which sets up right outside the restaurant on Sundays.

Kuo will soon add baby lamb and organic suckling pig to the offerings; you’ll be able to pick up an entire roasted pig for a family meal. Now that’s what we call going whole hog for the rotisserie trend.

Stir Market
7475 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles
323-879-8283
stirmarket.com

Status Kuo
3809 Grand View Blvd., Los Angeles
310-574-7610
eatstatuskuo.com

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