The Clean Plates Guide to Paris

The city of lights isn't all puff pastry and pomme frites—here's where to go for healthier delicious meals

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Dish from La Guinguette d'Angèle and juice from La Juicerie
By Colleen de Bellefonds

When planning your trip to Paris, you probably envision warm baguettes, oozing cheese, buttery pastries and savory steak-frites—“healthy” not being a word that springs to mind when you think of French food. But after a few days of croissants for breakfast and croque monsieurs for lunch, you might be hankering for something with a little less butter and a lot more kale.

Good news: A wide variety of trendy seasonal, organic, gluten-free and meat-free eateries have cropped up throughout Paris, making a foodie detox meal that’s heavy on the veggies and whole grains easier than ever to find. Pro tip: Before you drop into any of these spots, check the restaurant’s website; many have fickle hours and are closed on Sundays and sometimes Mondays.

Close to the Louvre When You’re Dining on the Run: La Guinguette d’Angèle


This vegetarian food stand next to the Palais Royale is less than a 10-minute walk from the Louvre. Naturopath-chef Angèle Maeght offers gluten-free and mostly raw take-away lunchboxes, with dishes like
polenta with peppers and roasted squash, chard gratin with tomato sauce and coconut milk, and sweet potato croquettes. (34 rue Coquillière; 011 33 9 81 81 05 65 )

Container of salad
La Guinguette d’Angèle

Where Locals Eat Near Sacre Coeur: Braisenville


Just south from the Sacre Coeur across the boulevard de Rochechouart, you’ll find a string of fresh-concept, waistline-minded restaurants, including this casual tapas spot. The menu ranges from hearty “Terre” (Earth) dishes like braised veal with tomatoes and cumin, to “Mer” (Sea) selections like fresh scallop ceviche with sweet potatoes, ginger and lime. (36 rue Condorcet; 011 33 9 50 91 21 74 )

Where to Go When Only Farm-to-Table Will Do: L’Arpège

 

It doesn’t get more farm-to-table than a chef who grows his own produce on his own farm. That’s exactly what you’ll find at Alain Passard’s 3-star Michelin restaurant (you might recognize Passard from Chef’s Table France). This locavore splurge serves up inventive, veggie-focused dishes like flamed eggplant ratatouille with fresh harissa and jardinière semolina with vegetable “merguez” sausage. (84, rue de Varenne; 011 33 1 47 05 09 06 )

L’Arpège
L’Arpège

Where to Get a Healthier-Than-Croissants Breakfast: Café Pinson


American chef Cameil Kaundart trades refined sugar for agave syrup and cow’s milk for almond  at the café that helped set the vegetarian and organic trend in Paris. Watch your juice get pressed while you wait, then fill up on gluten-free granola, madeleines or green tea matcha cake made in-house before braving the crowds on the Champs-Elysées. (6 rue du Forez, and multiple other locations; 011 33 9 83 82 53 53 )

Assorted vegetable plate
Café Pinson

Where to Go if You Want Your Baguette Sans Gluten: Chambelland


A short 10-minute walk from République you’ll find a boulangerie that thinks beyond the baguette with gluten-free loaves made from buckwheat, rye, cornmeal and rice flours milled in the south of France. Satisfy a sweet tooth with gluten-free tarts, granola bars, chouquettes and financiers. (14 rue Ternaux; 011 33 1 43 55 07 30 )

Where to Go If You Just Want Veggies: Wild & the Moon


Organic, seasonal, local: New Yorker Emma Sawko’s hip new vegan café ticks all the boxes when it comes to clean eating. Everything is made in-house, down to the almond milk. Opened first in Dubai and now in the hip Enfants Rouges neighborhood, this restaurant’s detox kitchen serves up fresh-pressed green juice, banana-cinnamon oatmeal, chia pudding, kale and brown rice salad with cumin and avocado cream, Japanese vegetable curry and crunchy to-go kale chips. (55 rue Charlot; 011 33 9 50 62 47 70)

Chia pudding from Wild & The Moon
Wild & the Moon

The Insider’s Gourmet Grocer: Bien Épicierie


This gourmet grocer at the heart of the Marais offers not just organic but biodynamic products delivered daily from local producers. The store’s resident naturopath can help guide you through a selection of gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan and detox goods, from veggies, fruits and salads to meats, cheeses, breads and pies. On a sunny day, bring a basket and picnic with Parisians at the huge hidden garden inside the nearby National Archives. (20 rue Saint Gilles and 8 rue des Quatre Fils; 011 33 1 44 61 30 95)

Grocery store exterior
Bien Épicierie

Parisians’ Go-To Farmer’s Market: Marché d’Aligre


In a city known for its farmers markets, this lively bazaar near Bastille is a local favorite for its neighborhood vibe and international flair. Browse the stalls for coffee, fresh herbs, olive oil, exotic fruit and even vintage shoes. At the indoor Marché Beauvau next door, be sure to stop by butcher Michel Brunon, a rare horse-meat vendor who recently made restaurateur Alain Ducasse’s “best of” Paris list. Cruise more than 350 cheeses at Fromagerie Hardouin-Langlet or relax with an apéritif at Le Barron Rouge wine bar. (Place d’Aligre;011 33 1 45 11 71 11 )

Women at meat counter
Marché d’Aligre

Where to Go When You’re Sick of Tourists: The 10th Arrondissement


Though it’s a bit off the beaten path, the 10
th is an up-and-coming foodie haven worth the train ride. South of the Poissonnière subway stop, sample a variety of organic, vegan and gluten-free cuisines from around the world: Think Korean-inspired bimbimbap with glazed fish and quinoa (Ma Kitchen); Franco-Japanese veggie bento boxes (Nanashi); bahn-mi hot dogs (Le Tricycle); roasted chicken burritos with mint-yogurt sauce (Nous); and oatmeal with blueberries, peanut butter and hazelnuts (Bol Porridge Bar). Closer to Canal St. Martin, get a fresh-pressed mango, banana and spinach juice (Bob’s Juice Bar) or a homemade, seasonal “slow food” meal shared with locals at a lively communal table (Le Bichat).

Hotdog with vegetables
Le Tricycle
The juice bar exterior
Bob’s Juice Bar

Where to Go if You’ve Gotta Work: Hubsy


This coworking café offers free unlimited gourmet Pfaff coffee drinks (lattes, espressos, cappuccinos) and snacks (fruit, cereal) when you pay for your seat and Wifi. (41, rue Réaumur; 011 33 1 43 56 89 80 )

The coffee shop's view
Hubsy

Where to Go When You Need a Quick Cleanse: La Juicerie


Paris’s first cold-pressed juice bar opened in 2015 near Opéra and the Galeries Lafayette. Using organic, raw fruits and veggies from Nanterre, a suburb 15 minutes outside of Paris, the brand’s bottles are also found in the city’s épiceries and gyms. Try the Le Mister K, with kale, cucumber, apple, pineapple and lime zest. For little more substance, tuck into a seasonal salad (lentils, pear, ricotta, pickled red onion, sunflower seeds, corn salad, lemon) or an acai bowl. (2 rue de la Michodière 011 33 9 81 87 78 10 )

Juices from La Juicerie
La Juicerie