Casual farm-to-table w/ holistic chef
A pricey ($30-60) new american restaurant with organic meat, flexitarian, & naturally-sweetened options in (@ 5th Ave.) (West 30's-14th (Chelsea)) with critics pick & brunch offerings.
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-4:30pm, 5:00pm-11:00pm Sat: 11:00am-4:00pm, 5:00pm-11pm Sun: 11:00am-4:00pm
There are plenty of chefs in New York making impressive use of seasonal ingredients, but not many can also claim to know the particular health benefits of each fruit, vegetable and protein. Enter John Marsh, chef and managing partner at Greensquare Tavern, who's also a holistic lifestyle coach. His Flatiron district restaurant features lovingly worn blue-and-white tile floors, exposed brick walls, and tabletop plants in terra cotta pots. Marsh's plates convey a similar down-to-earth beauty; our roasted beet salad was a pretty tangle of arugula and frisee tossed in aged apple vinegar, with creamy Grand Reserve goat cheese and sweet cubes of roasted beet playing off the tart dressing and sliced hearts of palm. We eased into more fresh, seasonal produce next with a surprisingly substantial vegan cannellini and chickpea stew. Marsh adds swiss chard and kale to the broth - a flavorful base of garlic, shallot and spring herbs - just before serving to maintain texture and nutritional value. Kale also accompanied a plate of pan-seared Long Island Pekin duck breast with a slightly overpowering herbal red peppercorn glaze and stewed black cherries. Less intrusive was the nutty, iron-and-zinc-packed red rice served with the duck and with the skin-seared salmon that arrived next. Crisp green beans and subtle tarragon pan sauce cut refreshingly through the fatty sustainably-raised Loch Duart salmon. We paired it with a side of mashed sweet potatoes so vividly colored and, well, sweet, that we assumed agave or sugar must have been added - neither was, we learned, only butter. Dessert seemed gratuitous at that point, but we splurged anyway on Missouri organic pecan pie, made with raw honey instead of sugar for a mellow sweetness. If Marsh continues serving dishes like these, he'll have no trouble convincing diners that taste, sustainability and health need not be mutually exclusive.