Just like the Whitney, the move downtown gave the restaurant an opportunity for a chic makeover. Where in its previous location Untitled took inspiration from the city’s classic diners, the new downtown incarnation goes gangbusters on vegetables. The Renzo Piano-designed restaurant, punctuated with poppy red chairs, got the same careful consideration that the galleries did.
While we don’t pretend to understand all of the art upstairs, we do know that chef Michael Anthony is clearly a master artist when it comes to creating dishes like pole beans with calamari and hazelnuts ($14) and turnips with string beans, guanciale and pecorino ($14).
The menu has a fun mix-and-match feel that is free of defined categories. While the larger main courses (featuring Dock to Dish fish and antibiotic- and hormone-free meats) sounded lovely, we found ourselves ordering mostly from the small plates, which are based around vegetables and make up the “meat” of the menu, like beets with yogurt and summery lemon verbena ($12).
Even for a restaurant that’s part of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group (Gramercy Tavern, Maialino and others), the service goes above-and-beyond. Questions are answered happily, special requests are honored and a welcoming, familial spirit is ever present.
Untitled even has a full time staffer—purchasing manager Jenny Jones—who works as a bridge between farmers and the restaurant. She sums up Untitled best when she says, “We source from people who we know, who we trust, and who produce delicious food.”
99 Gansevoort Street