To get to Faro, you’ll need to take the L train past those initial Brooklyn stops where it seems the entire car empties out, then navigate a short walk to a gritty-looking block where building numbers are few and far between.
But the trip will be worth it, we promise, when you arrive and get swallowed up by this restaurant (whose name means “lighthouse” in Italian) because nobody is making food quite like this back in Manhattan.
Faro is a passion project for husband-and-wife team chef Kevin Adey and Debbie Adey. Together, they’ve created a beacon for clean eating, a place where ingredient sourcing is just as important as the food, drinks and service.
The restaurant manages to be ambitious in its cooking, yet comfortable (there’s actually space between the tables!) and shockingly affordable considering what’s on the plate.
It’s hard to pass up bread ($5) when the wheat is milled in house and it comes with cultured butter that is some kind of magical. Start with a rooftop greens salad ($11) and a wood-oven roasted beet with pistachio pesto ($13). The center of the menu is dominated by pasta (ditto on fresh flour for the pastas too), like an incredible cavatelli with pork ragout, ricotta and parsley ($20) and bucatini with pastured chicken confit ($18). Housemade gluten-free pasta is also available.
Adey sees the farmers he works with, like Tim Haw of Autumn’s Harvest, as allies in his quest to serve the best food possible. That means exclusively serving grass-fed, antibiotic- and hormone-free meat, vegetables from the Brooklyn Grange, fish that is only local, sustainable, abundant and often considered “trash fish” such as porgy.
The L train awaits.
436 Jefferson St.